Well, now that I am conscious as opposed to a babbling
fool (this is in reference to my Skypeing with Bobby and fellow Muffins
last night; I went to bed at 3:40 in the morning, and that's a recent
record), I shall type up a blog post! So let me recall Friday! I already
mentioned the absolute wonder of baking, yes yes. So for the rest of
the day, we stayed at home, and I Skyped with some people, until we had
to head on out and meet to go to a restaurant with the Budapest API
group! We went to Chłopskie Jadło, which is a traditional Polish
food restaurant. The one we were supposed to eat at the first night we
were here, actually! So that was interesting. Since it was on API, all
of us went all out. I ordered apple pierogi for everyone to try at the
table, barszcz z uskami, and a pork with apricot in it, and it
was covered with an apricot, plum, and garlic sort of sauce. Yes, it was
quite delicious, actually! All of us were absolutely stuffed after
that. From there, we headed on home before heading over to Angelika's
place.
Angelika's apartment was wonderful! It is the
typical, modern Polish style apartment. So we all hung out in there for
the first part of the night with the Budapest kids. We all did typical
introductions in a circle, which for me, was super useful. But it was
quite enjoyable. Great group of people, actually. Although, gonna
straight up say that people need to remember Polish alcohol is far
stronger than the alcohol in the States. Oh, of course everyone was
drinking! I am proud to say I didn't even have a sip. Hoorah! Although,
mostly everyone else had at least 7 shots... ... Needless to say, you
can see where the night went. We headed out to a karaoke bar, where some
people mixed their beer and vodka. Literally pouring vodka into the
beer. Brilliant idea. We didn't stay there too long. Instead, we
walked around, trying to find clubs, completely exhausting my legs while
trying to herd drunk people who were falling over, literally, making
out with each other, and trying to get their coats from coat checks,
even though, they had gotten their coats already... Oh, people getting
lost, and others abandoning their lost friend. Super responsible.
Yes, it was a night of shambles. In retrospect, it was sort of amusing;
although, when I got home that night, I was honestly ticked off to a
scary level. Oh! While I was waiting for two of the people to retrieve
the lost girl, two of our group members were making out, and two guys
walked up to me, each holding two cans of open beer, offering them to
me. No worries! I said no thank you, firmly, multiple times, and they
left, giggling away. I guess it was some bet about "seeing what that
serious looking girl would do if offered beers."
That night left me with a further validation of the fact that most (note: not all) Americans have no clue how to drink. Even if you drink a lot,
you can drink responsibly. You can know what to do. Being drunk is
partially a matter of "mind over matter," too. So, having a preset
mentality of what to do when you are plastered would help.
Although, to get plastered in a foreign country, where you speak nothing
of that language, is just a terrible idea in the first place.
But, enough of that! Because the next day was far more meaningful... You see... We went to Auschwitz. Therefore, as a disclaimer, if you are faint of heart, please do not read on until my next bolded statement. I
did cry, writing part of this, as... it's absolutely unimaginable how
such a horrible event could've happened. And how these sort of things still happen to this day, in all parts of the world.
As many of you know, throughout my life, I have studied details and
stories on the Holocaust. I have always been interested in it as a
critical historical moment which must be remembered, so I
emphasize the need to learn about it and what people went through. This
was my third visit to Auschwitz; my first was in 2005, when I was 13,
and my second was last year, actually. You may ask, but why would you go
to such a depressing place so many times? Well, to pay respects to the
millions lost. To learn new things. To remind myself how fortunate I am
in my life. Every single visit I have learned something new. So yes, I plan on returning there again. If I am fortunate enough, perhaps even next summer.
The unbelievable happened in this tour, though. As soon as our tour
guide started speaking, I recognized his voice and his speech pattern.
Immediately, I looked at Monika and told her, "I think this is the same
tour guide I had last year." His speech pattern and his notations of the
events that happened in Auschwitz kept triggering my memory, and so
eventually, I went up to him and said, "So, I have a weird question for
you: how long have you worked here?"
"Four years."
"Oh, ok... Because I think you were my tour guide last year."
"Oh... Well, that could be possible."
"Did your grandfather stay in block 18?"
With a sort of shocked chuckle, he said, "Yeah, yeah that's me." We
talked about it, and we came to the conclusion that the chances of that
happening is like the lottery. Why? Last year, I visited in a different
month, on a different day, during a different time, and he is most certainly
not the only English tour guide. Although, I am glad I had him again,
because the way he presents everything is very well done.
We missed some of the parts that I remember going through last year,
such as block 18. You see, his great grandfather was placed in block 18
while he stayed in Auschwitz for I believe... 6 months? His great
grandfather was a Polish political prisoner. The reason I remembered his
grandfather so well, was because last year, when he took us to block
18, he told us how important that one particular building was to us.
Now, block 18 is a memorial to the Hungarian Jews that perished in
Auschwitz, and inside, you hear a beating heart, and you see pictures of
people being herded away from their homes and ghettos, and you
see their stories, and it's dark, and you are walking on glass, so you
feel like everything around you is fragile. I remember it being put
together very excellently, because it moved me to tears.
As always, we visited the room of hair... ... I hate
that room... To me, it is one of the most... heart-wrenching and
in-your-face moments of all of Auschwitz. You walk into a room. It is
about 30 yards long (perhaps less). The entire left side is blocked by
glass. Behind the glass... you see piles, upon piles... of human. Hair.
At the front, it is low, but it raises up in elevation deeper into the
case, which is at least 10 feet deep. That room? It contains 2 tons of human hair.
Taken from women, children, and men. Mostly ponytails. ... The amount
of hair in that room came from about... 50,000 people. They originally
found 7 tons of human hair when they found Auschwitz... 2 tons was only a third of the hair that was found. And you must remember. This hair was used. It was made into rugs, textiles for uniforms, and other textiles. It was used, and sold. They made a profit from it. Oh, and Auschwitz was actually under insurance. That land and their factory was under insurance.
Therefore, if it was bombed, the Nazis would've received money from it.
It was insured by Allianz. The company's still around today...
Auschwitz was an organized factory for death. The records they had of
everyone were precise. They kept numbers for their statistics. Of ya
know. Human lives. Being taken. They moved from Auschwitz I, which has
been the only part I have visited before, and built Auschwitz II, aka
Auschwitz-Birkenau, because their gas chamber and crematoria in one wasn't enough. Auschwitz I was a concentration camp converted from an old Polish military camp. The gas chamber was originally a bomb shelter.
In the first gas chamber, they could kill 380 people in one day. When
they built the second one, Birkenau... they could kill up to 5000 people. In. One. Day. And. They had to eventually start burning some of the bodies outside of the crematoria, because the crematoriums were not fast enough. They had four of them in Auschwitz II.
The Nazis built Auschwitz II where six Polish villages used to be. They
reused some of the supplies to build the barracks. Which, being wooden,
were far worse than in Auschwitz I, and no, the first one's weren't
that great of living conditions either. In the winter, it was just as
cold in the barracks as it was outside. They would let the dead people
stay in the barracks if they died there, so that way, they could have
their rations. Some of the best jobs were jobs like being a musician,
being a fellow officer, sometimes more brutal than the officers
themselves, or cleaning the shit out of the "toilets," which were just holes. In a ditch. Why? Because had better living conditions. Not stuffed into some bunks. You had the chance to live.
Out of the four crematoriums, three of them were destroyed by the Nazis
when they realized that the Red Army was closing in on them; they
wanted to destroy the evidence. But what happened to the one that was
not destroyed? Well. It had been destroyed. Earlier. The campers had an
uprising. Over the course of a year, the women would smuggle explosives from their factories. ... Over a year. They managed to smuggle just enough to destroy one
of the crematoriums. Oh yes, they were punished. Hanged, if I remember
correctly. And again, if I remember correctly, 400 other people were
killed in response to this uprising.
Through our
tour, our guide kept asking us: How long do you think you would last? Of
course, in Auschwitz I, everyone had a longer chance. Women, 3-5
months, men, half a year to a year. In Auschwitz two... A month was
pretty lucky... a year, rare. Whenever he asked us this, though, I could
only think of one photograph. It is one of the doctors standing in
front of a line of men. You see a man at the front, white hair, walking
cane. You see the doctor pointing his thumb to the right, and you have a
confirmation of that by his shadow behind him. This doctor. He would
look at the people in front of him, and just... flip his thumb. To the
left. Or to the right. Left? Sent off to the camp. Right? ... Sent off
to the gas chambers, being promised a shower. So you know. You
know by this picture, that that man died. Whenever our guide asked us,
how long would you last? I knew. I always thought to myself. I would see
his hand point to the right. Who needs a tiny a girl with a limp to work in a camp, right?
But, that's not the point. For these men, for the doctors who
determined who was sent to death. It was a simple movement. A small
flick of the hand. The face, the thought of their family. It meant nothing
to them. And this wasn't all just Jews. Mostly it was, yes, but there
were also the political prisoners, and the homosexuals, and the gypsies,
and so many other people. They were all people. Who cares what they are, or how they live their life, or what they believe. They are people.
Our Holocaust professor has taught us a saying: They went after the
Jews, the Gypsies, the homosexuals, and the bicyclists. Everyone in the
class asked: But why the bicyclists? She responded: Exactly.
It's a shameful thing. We all asked, why the bicyclists, but not about
the other three. They're all people, and it shouldn't matter at all, yet
it does. That on its own was enough to show just how ingrained these separations are ingrained in our society. It's shameful.
Our tour guide told us another interesting story. A while back, his
coworker had a German tour group. When they stopped in front of the
picture with the doctor pointing a man off to his death, one of the
members of the tour group pointed out a fellow officer on the picture.
He recognized his father. As a Nazi officer. Of course, the
picture is black and white, and blurry, so they checked the archives to
find that yes, this man's father was a Nazi officer in Auschwitz who was
in that picture. This man did not know his father had been at
Auschwitz, as an officer. He had no clue. He couldn't ask him about it
either, because by then, his father had passed on. This picture was
taken on the platform in Auschwitz II, where trains come in and drop off
the prisoners before they are given an order.
We
walked on that platform. We went through some of the barracks. We saw
the dozens of chimneys remaining from the other barracks, which
stretched out for a terrifying distance. We saw the few brick barracks
they had built on. We saw the remains of the crematoriums that the Nazis
had destroyed, where people were sent to die. In the last two months
that Auschwitz ran... it killed 400,000 people. In two months. Over the
five years it ran, from 1940 to 1945... the total was nearly 1.5
million people. Yet, nearly a full third of that number comes from the last two months. When they knew
that the Soviets were coming. When they wanted to try their hardest to
kill off all of the Hungarian Jews that were being imported at that
time.
So that was Auschwitz. And yes, as much as it
tore me apart to write all of this, I do plan on returning. Perhaps next
summer, on June 14, 1940. That was the first import of prisoners to
Auschwitz. 780 Polish political prisoners... Every year, survivors
return to Auschwitz on this day to remember... in honor of those lost
through this terrible trial of history. I have wanted to meet and talk
with a survivor all of my life, and because I know this day would be
truly powerful, I want to be there, that day. As far as I know, I may
even end up studying the Holocaust for the rest of my life. People need to remember the dangers of ignorance, the dangers of hatred, the dangers of petty names, and the dangers of stereotypes.
It's these small things that lead to such grand scale destruction, like
Auschwitz. No one deserves to die because of such dehumanization, or
worse, to live through them and be scarred for life.
With my heart pounding, I think it's time to finish talking about Auschwitz. The
visit was powerful as ever. We bid our tour guide good bye and left,
heading back for Kraków. Back in Kraków, Monika suggested we make
fajitas for dinner, and I Skyped with my friend Bryce and then my mom.
Although, my Skype session with my mom was cut short when Monika came to
my room and said: Fajitas! Yeah, no more was necessary. Although, we
had to go pick up our Budapest friend Maya so that she could join in on
the scrumptiousness. So Nate and I made extra fajita stuff, and then we
had some delicious fajitas when Maya and Monika came back. Afterwards,
we headed out to the E. Wedel restaurant. E. Wedel is one of Poland's
well-known and wonderful chocolate companies. So this restaurant is
dedicated to sweet goods. And oh goodness, that night made up every bit
for the previous night. We were all dying of laughter. I could
hardly breathe, and my cheeks hurt. I had tears in my eyes. It was
wonderfully fun. My lime, raspberry, and strawberry sorbet with fresh
strawberries, kiwis, and melon was phenomenal. Oh gosh. How I do adore
fruit. I also had a cup of hot chocolate with cinnamon in it. Oh, when I
say hot chocolate, I mean, basically, melted chocolate (with some
milk, I guess). Although, the chocolate was too bitter in my taste. The
cinnamon parts of it made it delicious, though. So yes, that was a
phenomenal evening.
We headed home after that, and
that was it for my evening! Except for the fact that I ended up Skyping
until 3:40 in the morning. Such a bright idea on my part, eh? (:
This morning, I slept in as late as I could. Which, unfortunately, my
body would not permit to be too late. Even though I had covered the
windows. Ah well! I relaxed, Maya came over, and then we went to meet up
for the Nowa Huta tour.
... Guys. If you are ever in Kraków. Take this "Crazy Guides" tour. They are epic. You see. You get to travel around in old cars. For example, we had two Trabant limousines,
one Fiat, and then some epic old Van, which was literally plushed red
on the inside. Oh yeah, we found out that Van was a party van... for
bachelor parties... And they played the stripper music while we were in
it (aka, really up-beat pop music, but still, the stripper CD). Oh yes.
The van did have a pole in it. You could smell and see the
burning fuel from each car. Oh, old car fun! One of the Trabants was
from 1984, and another from 1964. They looked exactly the same
minus the paint jobs. No competition meant no need for improvements in
those times in Poland, yeah?! :D Although, these cars are still bigger
than a Polish Maluch. Our drivers, the tour guides. Oh, were they
crazy! They would zoom ahead, and spin the wheel harshly, and drive all
crazy. Which is fitting for the name of the tour. And it made sense
with the cars. But it must've looked hysterical on the roads, watching these old-ass cars, driving around like lunatics.
They were fun to listen to and talk with, though! Excellent
English, for all of them. But anyways, the point of this tour was Nowa
Huta, a city built right outside of Krakow as a gift to Krakow, from
Stalin. It was meant to be the PERFECT Communist city, and an example
for the world. It's built in a half-circle shape. The distance from
homes to work is perfect. It's all cheaply built, meant to last sixty
years, because the area went from nothing to a factory, steel-based town
in ten years. All of the buildings were originally white, grayed by the
smoke columns. All of the apartments and accessories within them were
essentially the same. There was absolutely nothing in the shops in the
80s because the economy was shit. Yet you had to wait in ridiculous
lines to get up and hear, oh, we have nothing. You might have had the
money, but it was essentially useless, as there was nothing to buy. You
would have to wait for two or three weeks to buy a laundry machine, and
longer for a car, and even with those cars, you'd have to buy two to
make one successful working one. Everything was controlled. Your
job, your apartments, everything. If one person had a TV, everyone in
the block would go there to watch it. People were supposed to be happy
as hell workers in Nowa Huta, because who wouldn't want to live in a
successful, industrial, Communist city? Yet, they tore down the walking
Lenin statue in one of their squares the minute they had the
opportunity. Apparently, this statue now wears a cowboy hat and holds a
cigar. (Or perhaps that was a joke, but it makes me and many others
happy!)
While Communism did not support or like the
idea of religion, they knew that restricting Poland, a 98% Catholic
country, essentially, would just bring them unnecessary riots. So
eventually, they were permitted to build a church, which is super
symbolic. It's roof is shaped like a boat, and it's called the Ark,
because it's meant to represent that one day, it will save them all from
a flood of Communism. There are seven entries, like the seven something
in Catholicism (sorry about my lack of knowledge there), and then the
cross. Well, you see, in previous years, the citizens were permitted to
put up a wooden cross in town, but three years later, it was torn down
by Soviet Militia men. Oh, there were riots. So, what the architect did
was make the cross a supporting beam of the church. So it couldn't be
torn down without destroying the church! Genius!
Our tour guides constantly referred to the Communists as Communist bastards. Such as when they were showing us the złoty from
that time, the first two were some Communist people, so he was like:
"Two Communist bastards, Kościuszko, Kopernikus," and I can't remember
the last one. Ah, we all had shots with a chaser of a pickle! Oh,
obviously, I didn't join in on the shot, but the pickle was delicious! We started our tour in "Stylowo,"
translated to Stylish. It's a popular/famous restaurant from Nowa Huta,
and that's where he showed us some history via pictures. It was a very
interesting part of the tour, because I learned quite a bit. Ah! And it
featured one interesting anti-Soviet, propaganda piece. It's a
caricature of a Soviet militia man, holding the sickle and hammer behind
his back. So you have one picture on the left, of him from the front,
and a second of him from the back, where you see the Communist sickle
and hammer. On top, it says, "Obywatel wybór," which is
essentially, "Citizen choice." Underneath the caricatures, it has
written, "Ence-pence, w której ręce?" Essentially, that means, "Pick a
hand." So, if you see where that is going, it's a very satirical piece
of, "You can pick, but it won't make a difference!"
So, very interesting and fun tour today! We came back, and Maya, Monika,
Nate, and I all headed back to our apartment to pick a place to eat,
and then we went to eat at said place called "Wesele." It was... not as
reasonably priced as we had thought it would be, to be honest. Our
stupid book lied. But ah well! The food ended up being good: I hate
chicken stuffed with hazelnuts over a spinach in cream deal, with kluski
on the side. So the food was good, our conversation was good, we headed
home, played some Yahtzee, and Monika and Nate walked Maya back to the
hotel to make sure she could get there so she would get on her train
back to Budapest!
Basically, for the most part, this
weekend was wonderful! And tomorrow should be quite enjoyable as well!
Though, I really should be working on some school stuff tomorrow,
instead of running around and doing a ton of things, then taking my
leisure time as relaxation time... Perhaps, I should also insure going
to bed at a reasonable time, tonight! Dobra noc, moje kolegów!
No comments:
Post a Comment